Skincare

GOINDIS NATUROPATHY TRUST(INDIA)
Charity Registration No.845/4 dated 03.09.2003

SKINCARE
with Naturo-Food Therapy

SANTOKH SINGH PARMAR

FOUNDER TRUSTEES:
Satyendra Singh Goindi, MSc, LLB, ND
Gurkirpal Kaur Goindi, BA, BEd, DPE, ND
Santokh Singh Parmar, B Arch, Dip TP, Dip LA, MRTPI, AITP, AIIA
Devinder Singh Saroya, PCS
Gurmukh Singh Girn, MSc, MCRP, AITP

Cost of Printing Rs.50/-

Skincare with Naturo-Food Therapy

Contents

Para Nos.		Para Nos.
1-16	SKIN – THE CARING COVER OF THE BODY
1-5	What is Skin?	10-15	Skin Microbes
6-7	Skin — the Indicator of Health Status	16	Skin Functions
8-9A	Skin Types according to Ayurveda
17-47	MAIN CAUSES OF AGEING AND WRINKLES
17-21	Ageing Process	39	Winter Woes
22-28	The Sun Factor	40-41	Dangerous Cocktail of Creams, Lotions and Peels
29-31	Lack of Proper Nutrition	42	Lack of Exercise
32	Water Woes	43	Stress Overdose
33-34	Sugar – the White Poison	44	Hormonal Changes in Women and Genetics
35	Dieting Blunders	45	Sleep Quality and Sleep Deprivation
36	Smoking and Alcoholism	46	Facial Expressions
37	Environmental Pollution	47	Time and Gravity Wait for None
38	Chemical Pollutants
48-76	SKIN PROBLEMS
49-52	Skin Blemishes (Acne, Black Heads, White Heads, Pimples)	64	Dry Patches
53	Excessive Sweating, Body and Foot Odour	65	Chapped Lips
54	Moles	66	Urticaria
55	Athletes Foot and Jock Itch	67	Vitiligo (Leucoderma)
56	Warts	68	Skin Cancer (Melanoma)
57	Impetigo	69	Eczema
58	Psoriasis	70	Oily/Dry Skin
59	Sun Damage	71	Wrinkles
60	Melasma/Chloasma	72	Itching
61	Dark/Age Spots	73	Epidermolysis Bullora Simplex (EBS)
62	Puffy Eyes	74-76	Dandruff
63	Dark Under-Eye Circles

77-97	SKINCARE WITH NATURO-FOOD THERAPY
78-80	Role of Nutrition in Skincare
81-83	Benefits of Fruits and Vegetables in Skincare
84-97	Food-Vitamin-Mineral Connection with Skin
85	Vitamin A	92	Proteins
86	Vitamin B	93	Green Tea
87	Vitamin C	94	Herbs and Spices
88	Vitamin E	95	Diet for Dry Skin
89	Lycopene	96	Diet for Oily Skin
90	Minerals Selenium & Zinc	97	Diet for Acne-Prone Skin
91	Essential Fatty Acids (EFA)
98-122	HOME REMEDIES FOR SKINCARE
98	Harmful Effects of Cosmetic Products	115	Acne-Fighting Mask
99	Beneficial Effects of Natural Substances	116-118	Banish Age Spots and Pimples
100-105	Home Cleansers/Scrubs for Skin	119	Toning the Skin
106-107	Skincare in Winters	120	Face Masks
108	Skincare in Summers	121	Essential Oils and Skin
109-113	Hair Damage	122	Rose Water
114	Preventing Hair Fall
123-127	Fruits for Skincare
123	Papayas	126	Oranges
124	Apples	127	Pomegranates
125	Bananas
128-150	GUIDELINES TO PREVENT SKIN AGEING AND WRINKLES
128-131	How Ageing and Wrinkles Occur?
132	Cutout Junk Foods and Beverages	140	Exercise Regularly
133-134	Avoid or Limit “Three White Poisons”	141-144	Have Adequate Sleep and Relaxation
135	Limit Caffeine Intake	145-147	Avoid Cosmetic Creams, Lotions, Peels and Anti-Wrinkle Jabs
136	Look after Your Colon Health	148	Avoid Hot Baths/Showers
137-138	Keep Your Body Hydrated	149	Exfoliate the Skin
139	Avoid Excessive Sun Exposure	150	Cleanse the Skin Regularly

Skincare with Naturo-Food Therapy

Skin – the caring cover of the Body

What is Skin?

1. By virtue of its weight (about 16% of body weight) and surface area (about 2 sq. metres), the skin is not only the largest organ of our body, but is also the foremost marker of our physical identity. Healthy skin is aesthetically pleasing to the sight. Our healthy skin can attract people to us when it is physically and visually appealing to others. Also acting as a determinant of our mood of how our skin communicates or looks to others – flushed when embarrassed, or pale with anaemia and nervous when we sweat.

2. Skin consists of two layers – the epidermis (outer layer) and the dermis (inner layer). Underneath these two layers is a layer of fatty tissue called the subcutaneous layer. The subcutaneous layer insulates the body from temperature changes and connects the skin to the body.

3. The epidermis is the top layer of the skin you see. It is made up of cells that are continuously renewed about every month, which means that the skin you see is about a month old. The epidermis has small openings called pores. Pores are tunnels that lead to the skin surface from below the epidermis. Skin oil and sweat are carried in the pores upto the skin surface. Melanin, that gives skin, eyes and hair, their colour, is found in the epidermis. Melanin affords some protection to the skin from sun’s rays and is produced whenever the skin is exposed to the sun. Melanin does not provide complete protection from the sun, and anyone can be burnt. Melanin is the substance that produces freckles.

4. The dermis is the skin layer just below the epidermis. It contains a network of blood vessels that carry heat and nutrients to the surface of the skin. The dermis has thousands of tiny hairs. The root of each hair is surrounded by oil glands. Oil from these glands travels along the hair to the surface of the skin which keeps it moist, soft and waterproof. Overproduction of the oil can make the skin oily. The dermis also has thousands of sweat glands that produce sweat to rid the body of excess water, salts and wastes. When sweat evaporates, it cools the skin. About 1.13 litre of water is excreted in sweat everyday, but most of the time it goes

unnoticed. Some sweat glands release their moisture directly to the skin’s surface. Other sweat glands release their moisture into a hair follicle in regions such as the armpits and groin. This secretion, rich in proteins and fatty acids, is decomposed by bacteria on the skin’s surface, causing a distinct odour. These glands begin to function at puberty. Emotional stress and sexual changes promote secretion from these glands. Nerves are also found in the dermis, allowing us to feel touch, pain, heat and other sensations.

5. Distributed unevenly across the skin are 2,800,000 receptors for pain, 2,00,000 for cold and 5,00,000 for touch and pressure. A woman’s skin is at least ten times more sensitive to touch and pressure than a man’s. Men have thicker skin than women which explains why women get more wrinkles than men. The skin on a man’s back is four times thicker than his stomach skin. Female skin has an extra layer of fat below it for more warmth in winter and to provide greater endurance. Oxytocin hormone in women stimulates the urge to be touched and fires up the touch receptors. It is no wonder that women, with receptors that are 10 times more sensitive than men’s, attach so much importance to cuddling their men, children and friends and vice versa.

Skin – the Indicator of Health Status

6. Good health and physical fitness are imperative for a radiant skin. It is well established that internal health and external beauty are two sides of the same coin. The skin is called the mirror of the body and rightly so. No other organ reflects the state of internal health as faithfully as the skin does. Boils and other eruptions are an obvious sign of impurities in the bloodstream. A pallid (pale) complexion is an indicator of low vitality. Smooth, radiant, soft skin is a sign of good health.

7. A yogi’s body is very soft in repose. The muscles of a strong man who practices yoga may feel like those of a woman; but when the yogi chooses to send energy to his muscles to tense them, they become hard like steel. The softness of a yogi’s body has a resilience to it; it is not flabby. The palms are also a good indicator of one’s health and vitality. Soft, flaccid palms are not a sign of good health, or of dynamic vitality. Hard hands are a sign of tension throughout the body, that in time results in breakdowns, inviting diseases. The palms should be resilient to pressure from the fingers. A certain rosiness in the colour of the hands is an indication of good health.

Skin Types according to Ayurveda

8.  Thousands of years ago Ayurveda highlighted various tones and textures of the skin as a major characteristic of different persons:

 (i) Skin of Vata Person – The skin of the vata dominated persons is in general dry, thin and cool to touch and has dry hair. When balanced, it glows with a delicate lightness and refinement, but in a dry and windy weather or in certain adverse conditions it is prone to excessive dryness and may even become rough and flaky. Vata skin has a tendency to disorders such as itching, pruritis, dry eczema and fungus afflictions. Mental stress and worries and lack of sleep and rest have a powerful debilitating effect on it by making to look tired and listless.

(ii) Skin of Pitta Person – The pitta skin is fair, beaming, soft, warm and of medium thickness, having fine and straight hair. Under normal conditions, it has a pinkish or reddish tinge and is invariably prone to excessive sweating and copious moles and freckles. It is the most sensitive skin having a tendency to develop rashes, pimples, furuncles and pigment disorders. With oily undertones, it has least tolerance for sun, is photosensitive and gets its problems aggravated by the consumption of hot, oily and spicy food.

(iii) Skin of Kapha Person – The kapha type of skin is thick, soft, moist and unctuous in nature. With hair that are characteristically thick and wavy, kapha people have adequate muscles and fats under their skin and are fortunate to develop wrinkles much later in life. If their skin becomes sick, it can show up as dull, congested, having nodular enlargements and looking like having water retention. Kapha skin is more prone to clogging. Consumption of heavy and hard to digest food, application of oily and greasy substances and undermining of body hygiene can give it problems like fungal infections and wet and oozing afflictions.

9. It is usually seen that many people at the same time have both dry and oily skin or have certain zones which are different in appearance and nature. Most noticeable of these is the T zone which separates the skin of forehead and nose from the rest of the face. Ayurveda, too, has described dual prakriti having characteristics of two body types. Certain other factors like the hormonal status,

nutritional support, genetic predisposition and systemic health problems can also affect normal quality and consistency of the skin.

9-A    How to find skin type – About 15 minutes after washing your face, press a tissue against your skin for 5 to 10 seconds. Dark spots all over the tissue mean your complexion is oily; just a few spots indicate combination skin. If your skin is normal, you’ll see light spots; if there’s no oil at all on the tissue, you’ve got dry skin.

 Skin Microbes

10.     The human skin is a veritable ecosystem, teeming with trillions of microbes. Microbes including bacteria and viruses are single-celled microorganisms, are very good at survival due to their superfast reproduction and smart mutations. We don’t see them but they are all over us and in the body. Each of us is a host to an ecosystem of microbes like bacteria, viruses, fungi and protozoa in our intestines, mouth, eyes, ears, nose, anus, vagina/penis and of course the skin. Contrary to popular belief, these are not all dirty and dangerous creatures. The good ones produce vitamins, help digest our food and work as an essential part of our immune system.

11.     The skin is the largest organ of our body, and a generous host to microbes. We have between 11,000 (forearm) to 1.5 million (scalp) bacteria per sq. cm. Many people believe washing will remove these “bugs and germs”. In fact, studies show even the most vigorous washing does not remove microbes completely. Babies are born microbe-free, but rapidly pick up their own set of microbial friends and become “saturated” within nine days.

12.     A layer of dead cells constitutes the outer section of our skin. Each new cell produced by cell division moves from the inner section of the skin towards the surface. In the process, the liquid component (cytoplasm) of the cell transforms into a resistant protein known as keratin and the cell dies. This keratin has a very hard structure and cannot be decomposed by digestive enzymes, which is a sign of its resistance. So invaders such as bacteria and fungi don’t find anything to rip off from the outer layer of the skin.

13.     The dead outer cells containing keratin are constantly shed from the skin surface. Feeding on the leftovers stuck on the keratin, a group of harmless microbes live on the skin, which have adapted to its acidic medium. These microbes attack all kinds of foreign bodies to protect their feeding site. In one experiment, the typhoid bacteria, Salmonella typhi, was smeared on human skin and, within twenty minutes, was completely destroyed by the beneficial resident bacteria. The same Salmonella typhi smeared on a glass slide, after twenty minutes, had remained and reproduced. Though we can’t see or feel our tiny resident skin microbes, they wriggle around, constantly fighting territorial battles against other, often harmful, microbes.

14.     There are two main types or microbes on our skin: permanent residents and transients. Permanent microbial species live on the surface of the skin and also in deeper layers. Washing off the surface populations simply encourages microbes in the lower layers to come up. However, transient populations, which are picked up from other people or animals, are generally removed by thorough washing.

15.     Meanwhile, we produce 10 billion skin flakes – squames – daily. In a year, that amounts to over 2 kg. What happens to these? Well, remember the idea of dust-to-dust? Dust in the home is 90 percent squames, the favourite food of the peaceful dust mite. Dust mites have evolved to live with us in harmony. A double bed has 2 million dust mites. Studies have found no home, free of dust mites. These peaceful squames-munchers are the final link in the skin’s ecosystem.

Skin Functions

16.     The skin acts as a caring cover to our body and is a busy frontier handling a number of physiological functions. It performs many vital roles as both a barrier and a regulating influence between the harsh outside world and the controlled environment within our bodies. Skin’s important functions include the following:

 (i)      To regulate body temperature – Internal body temperature (core temperature) is controlled through several processes, including the combined actions of sweat production and the rate of blood flowing through the network of blood vessels within the skin. In very cold conditions, skin blood flow drops very low, retaining heat in the centre of the body and preserving the flow of warm blood to the vital organs within the chest and abdomen and to the brain.

(ii)     To act as air-conditioner – When blood vessels dilate or get bigger, heat is lost, when they constrict or get smaller, cutaneous blood flow reduces and conserves heat. To put it simply, in hot summery conditions skin produces sweat which cools the body when it evaporates, whereas it conserves the body heat by constricting its blood vessels when it is cold in the winter season.

(iii)    To prevent fluid loss – Skin can also control evaporation and prevent fluid loss. Skin prevents dehydration by stopping fluids from escaping by acting as a storage for water and lipids.

(iv)    To act as a defensive shield – The physical toughness of the skin acts as a defensive shield between us and both the external and internal environment. It prevents injuries, the ingress of harmful chemicals, irritants and contaminants and invading organisms such as bacteria and viruses and protects the body from vagaries of nature.

(v)     To ward-off ultra violet rays – Our skin protects the body from bad effects of ultra violet rays of the sun which can cause sunburn, premature wrinkles and DNA damage. Skin cells produce melanin, a pigment in the skin, when exposed to sunlight, which determines the colour of the skin – fair or dark. Darkening of the skin is caused by an increase or release of the pigment melanin into the skin’s cells after exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Melanin is produced by cells called melanocytes and protects the body from absorbing an excess of solar radiation, which can be harmful. In darker persons the melanin production is more efficient. Melanin, to some extent, protects the skin from scorching sunshine. Fair-skinned people are, therefore, more susceptible to damage from exposure to excessive ultraviolet rays of the sun than dark-skinned persons.

(vi)    To synthesis vitamins – Skin exposed to sunlight is the main site of manufacture of vitamin D naturally from provitamin contained in skin fat. Vitamin D is essential for the growth and maintenance of our bones.

(vii)   To help get rid of wastes – The sweat glands of the skin excrete excess water, salts, toxins and poisons that are present in the body, as do the kidneys and bowels. For the skin to perform these functions, it must be able to breathe and should be kept clean. Hence using lots of skin-clogging make-ups is not in your best interests.

(viii)  To transmit sensations such as pain, cold and touch – The extensive network of nerves within the skin feeds information constantly to the brain concerning pain and our surroundings. On the one hand, we are thus warned of harmful extremes of temperature or of other dangers, while on the other, touch can be one of the most powerfully soothing and pleasurable of sensations.

Main causeS of Ageing and Wrinkles

Ageing Process

17.  To be alive is to live, to live is to get older, and to get older is to get wrinkles! Wrinkling is not just a superficial process but is actually a roadmap of your overall health and fitness status. The dermis (inner layer of skin) becomes thinner with age because cell division slows down. The network of elastin (the protein which causes the skin to stretch) and collagen fibres (the major structural proteins in the skin), which support the outer layer, also loosen. Around 30’s, you are probably just starting to see fine lines that bracket your mouth and radiate out from the corners of your eyes when you smile, talk or squint. How soon wrinkles appear for each of us and how noticeable they become, depends to some extent on heredity, to a greater extent on diet and also on the natural ageing process in which the skin loses its elasticity and becomes thinner, drier and more fragile.

18.  Our bodies are pre-programmed to age. As we age, it takes both knowledge and a sustained daily programme to maintain the good health and appearance that we took for granted for so many years. The skin ageing is of two kinds. The first is the inevitable, natural, biological ageing – the intrinsic ageing. The intrinsic ageing is largely genetic and includes the natural effects of gravity (skin sag), expression lines, sleep lines and impacts of hormonal changes. The second kind – the extrinsic ageing – is an ageing over which we have certain control.

19.   The natural intrinsic ageing process can be greatly accelerated by the extrinsic ageing process through the way we sleep, speak and exercise and what we eat. It also depends on the excessive exposure to the sun, a fact that is responsible for 90% of unnatural ageing of the skin. One can realise this sun factor after looking at the fact that wrinkling of the face, neck, arms and hands comes much earlier than other parts of the body less exposed to the sun. The other 10% of the accelerated skin ageing is due to certain disease conditions and owing to the way we use our face to express our thoughts, feelings and behaviours. Frowning,

squinting and grimacing bring out wrinkles and aggravates natural furrows. A sour face is a wrinkled face as compared with a smiling one!

20.     The ageing process is no longer inevitable, but sadly something that mostly happens prematurely. Noticeable ageing can start from the early to mid 30’s. However, it becomes most obvious from the early 40’s. This is due to the cumulative effect of damage from the sun and an increasing drop in the production of oestrogen and testosterone. This decline in hormones as we get older affects the body’s ability to process carbohydrates as effectively, as before, and also its ability to retain moisture.

21.     Skin is the largest organ in the body and the most exposed at that. Environmental pollution, harsh sunlight and air-conditioners (sapping up moisture) enhance its ageing process. Stress, coupled with negative emotions, too plays as a catalyst in skin ageing. As you age, muscle contractions and rest lines develop into irritable lines. There are also freckles and sun spots that speed up the ageing process. Creases, laugh lines, crow’s feet – call it whatever you want, but wrinkles are wrinkles. Some regard this natural weathering of the skin as a sign of experience and wisdom that comes with age. Others may see this less optimistically – as a sign that they are past their prime. In these days and age, wrinkles are known to appear prematurely due to many reasons. Below are some of the causes of early ageing of the skin in more detail.

The Sun Factor

22.     Sun damage is undoubtedly the main culprit for the ageing process. Never before has so much been said, written and discussed about the dangers of prolonged exposure to the sun. Yet, many of us ignore the warnings. There are two main types of ultra violet (UV) rays emitted by the sun and both are damaging to the skin in different ways. UVA rays penetrate the epidermis to attack collagen and elastin fibres in the dermis (inner layer) responsible for maintaining the firmness and elasticity of the skin, which leads to premature lines, wrinkles and sagging. UVB rays are powerful and do long term damage to the tissue on the surface of the skin, resulting in sunburn. They also generate excess free radicals within the body, which it simply cannot cope with. Over time this can lead to DNA damage, cell mutations and even skin cancer. The skin requires 24 hours to recover from one exposure to UVB radiation. We may be able to get away with UV damage when we

are young. As we get older, UV damage becomes more obvious as the skin is unable to recover at the required rate and the signs of ageing appear.

23.     Every time you move out in the sun, you add a little cumulative damage to the supportive network of the skin’s elastic fibres, which give your skin its resilience and bounce. This degenerative oxidative sun damage is what is called premature ageing or photo ageing in contrast to intrinsic ageing which takes place as one advances in years.

24.     Sunlight is not all bad. The beneficial effect of sunlight is the formation of vitamin D from provitamin contained in the skin fat. Sunlight reduces the susceptibility to infections. Also when the skin is exposed to the sun, there is an immediate darkening of the skin which is due to darkening of preformed melanin pigment, called suntan, on the skin’s upper layers. Occasional tanning lasts only for a few hours. However, intermittent continued exposure for a period of one or two weeks will result in the formation of new melanin which causes tanning along with the thickening of the skin epidermis. Hence increased melanin (tanning) and epidermal thickening are the two skin’s defence mechanisms against the burning UVB rays since the skin pigment absorbs some of UVB rays.

25.     However, brief but acute overexposure to the culprit, intense UV rays in sunlight, causes erythema (redness) and sunburn, with symptoms of mild irritation to serious inflammation. Sunburn is reddened skin, which is painful, hot to the touch and if severe can be blistered or swollen. Each individual tends to vary in the amount of overexposure it takes before experiencing sunburn. Sunburn may not appear right away. It may take an hour or up to a day for a sunburn to appear on the skin. Sometimes sunburn is not noticed until the skin is touched. Someone who has severe sunburn may experience chills, weakness or fainting. Fair skinned persons may peel several days after receiving sunburn. The skin may look dry and be very itchy just before peeling. Apply lotion over affected skin areas to relieve the itch and aid in healing.

26.     Medical science has proved beyond doubt that the overexposure to the sun damages the facial tissue that not only accelerates the visible signs of ageing, but also causes distinct irreversible skin damage. The excessive sunshine also causes blemishes like freckles, dark ageing spots, especially on the face, chest and hands as well as mottled discolouration in sun-exposed areas. Today’s tan is tomorrow’s

wrinkle! Not forgetting the hair, remember UV damage penetrates the skin and harms the scalp and hair too. Remember that hair is much weaker in the sun especially when it is wet. Sunshine combined with swimming in chlorinated water can spell disaster for hair health.

27.    Overexposure to the sun also causes skin cancer (melanoma), though it is less common in dark-skinned people since their skin contains more of the protective pigment (melanin). There is no warning when you have been over-exposed. Most skin cancers are easily treatable, but one type called malignant melanoma is very serious. Malignant melanomas are cancers of the cells that produce melanin. If you notice any changes in size, colour or condition of a mole, you should seek medical attention to make sure you don’t have melanoma. It is true that to expose yourself to the sun is more dangerous now than it was some years ago. This is because of the depletion of the protective natural ozone layer in the atmosphere, which acts as a filter to protect us from the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays. One should keep in mind that even on a cloudy or foggy day up to 80% of the sun’s ultraviolet reaction is not filtered. Too much sun exposure can also lead to eye problems.

28.    Sunlight is the normal and natural source of vitamin D. According to experts some 60% of people in the UK have insufficient amounts of this nutrient in their blood. So they are almost certainly at a higher than average risk of developing forms of cancer other than skin cancer, diabetes, high blood pressure, arthritis, even schizophrenia and a number of other diseases. There is also concern that rickets is making a return. The public in the sun-deprived countries (Australia, New Zealand, UK etc.) is now being told to spend at least 10-15 minutes in the sunshine most days except during the hottest part of the day between 10 AM to 4 PM.

 Lack of Proper Nutrition

29.    No amount of skincare and expensive beauty products in the universe can keep your skin looking good if you are eating a nutrient-deficient diet consisting of refined fat-rich processed junk foods and beverages laden with chemical additives and too many cereals, pulses and non-vegetarian/dairy products and very little fruits, vegetables, salads, sprouts, nuts and seeds. It is now established that even slight shortfalls in vitamins/minerals can take a toll on your complexion, albeit subtle, because if the skin cells don’t get adequate vitamins and minerals, the metabolism of the cells gets short-circuited and the skin does not look as good or function as well as it should.

30.     For example, scrimp on vitamin A required for new cell formation and your face may look drier and flakier. Skip vitamin C, needed for collagen formation, and the result could be skin that is slightly thinner, rougher and less elastic. The truth is that if you eat the wrong foods, your skin may even age faster than it should if you eat the right foods. Free radicals created by wrong foods are now thought to be major contributors to ageing skin.

31.     Deficiency of antioxidant vitamins A, C and E can result in reduced immunity which can cause environmental onslaught damage to the skin. Vitamin B2 (riboflavin) deficiency can lead to brown pigmentation or brown spots on the skin. Severe vitamin B2 deficiency can lead to oily skin and hair and small deposits of fat under the skin of cheeks, forehead and behind the ears. Inadequate iron (haemoglobin) in the blood results in pallid (pale) complexion and more prominent under-eye dark circles. Skin is predominantly protein and its deficiency can cause slackened and loose skin.

 Water Woes

32.     The elasticity and softness of your skin is dependent on water, so maximum damage to your skin occurs when you are dehydrated. Dehydration due to insufficient water intake or increased loss by way of evaporation leads to premature ageing. About 16% of the body’s water is stored in the muscles, which will become soft and flabby if you become dehydrated. The dehydrated skin shows in the form of fine lines and dryness. Constipation due to low water intake, as we all know, leads to raised toxin levels and therefore a dull skin.

Sugar – the White Poison

33.     Sugar is regarded as one of the three white poisons injurious to health, the other two being refined starch (maida) and salt. Sugar is not a natural substance and it is foreign to the body. It is the result of an industrial process that refines sugarcane and sugarbeet with the aid of harmful chemicals which strips off all the vitamins, minerals, proteins, enzymes and other nutrients. So it becomes a pure carbohydrate with zero nutrients and empty calories which only induces weight gain. As sugar has no nutrients, its digestion robs many of your body’s precious resources. Vitamins B and C, chromium, calcium, zinc, magnesium, are all needed to digest sugar, which it essentially derives from the body. So the deficiency of these vitamins and minerals depresses the immune function which reduces the

body’s ability to avoid skin and other problems caused by environmental onslaught and to fight infections.

34.     Ultimately, all carbohydrates are broken down into sugar, therefore, we don’t actually need to eat sugar itself or in sweets, cakes and ice-creams. Rapid rise in blood sugar, mainly due to sugar-rich foods, leads to inflammation, which is the basis of ageing. Sugar hastens the dehydration of collagen and elastin, both key skin proteins. In other words, it actively ages you. The sugar leads to glycation process that makes sugar molecules bind to your protein fibres, which are flexible collagen and elastin fibres that form the base for a person’s skin. The sugar attacks these fibres, making them less elastic and more brittle, so they break. Losing this elastic resilience of the youthful skin produces sagging, deep wrinkles and makes one look old. Dietary sugars have been observed to mess with the symmetry of the skin cells which leads to increased folding, causing wrinkles and general ageing of the skin. Dr. Fredric Brandt says, “removing sweet from the diet can make a person look 10 years younger!”

 Dieting Blunders

35.     Fad or crash dieting decreases your body’s immune function in the long term. Does dieting age the skin? The answer is yes! A study in American Journal of Clinical Nutrition involving 4,025 middle-aged and older women on diet found wrinkling among 22% women, dry skin in 29% and thinning skin among 13%. Those who consumed the most carbohydrates and fat had more wrinkled skin. Women who reported eating the most foods high in vitamin C and linolic acid (soyabean oil, leafy green vegetables, nuts) had the healthiest looking skin, with the least amount of wrinkling, dryness and thinning. If you allow yourself to become overweight or obese, your skin has no choice but to stretch to accommodate extra fat. As you (hopefully) lose that extra weight, you may suffer not only from stretch marks, but also from having excess skin. Thus excessive weight loss after dieting loosens the skin, making it more vulnerable to wrinkles and sagging under the force of gravity. Therefore, one should avoid fad or crash diets and try to lose weight gradually with proper diet and exercise.

 Smoking and Alcoholism

36.     Tobacco smoke contains or produces on burning about 4,000 toxic chemicals, about 60 of which including arsenic, methanol and DDT are

carcinogens. Chemicals inhaled from cigarette smoke constrict blood vessels, including in the skin, reducing the oxygen and nutrient supply to delicate facial tissues. Thus smoking causes premature facial wrinkles. Long-term smokers can often be identified by their face alone from the little furrows that spread out in the upper and lower lips and by the crow’s feet around the eyes as well as wrinkle lines around the cheeks and jaws. It is said that heavy smokers in their 40s often have as many facial wrinkles as non-smokers in their 60s. Excessive alcohol consumption messes with blood circulation. Blood vessels are made to expand and are damaged in the long term. This causes broken blood vessels to be seen on the skin’s surface.

 Environmental Pollution

37.     Have you noticed the grey haze that drifts around just above your head as you walk down the streets or are driving next to one of those smoke-belching tanks. As the day progresses, uncovered skin, like your face and arms, is coated with a thin film of dirt which clogs the pores. Since it is unlikely that you’re going to dash off for a shower in the middle of your sales meeting, the film slowly builds up till you wash it off. Pollutants are, hence, one of the main contributors to early ageing of the skin.

Chemical Pollutants

38.     Harsh chemicals in skincare products and excessive use of cosmetics, shampoos and soaps makes the skin to become dry and rough. The chemicals attack the membranes of the cells and the cell structure disintegrates as a result. This finally leads to fine lines and collagen damage. Strong preservatives and antibacterial agents also destroy enzymes that trigger absorption and maintain lubrication. Be cautious on a number of “herbal” products being sold in the market for skincare, as how much herbal they are nobody knows. Chemicals like chlorine, a gaseous greenish-yellow chemical, used as a disinfectant in most public and private swimming pools can damage your skin. Skin, while basically waterproof, can absorb some contaminants in water like chlorine. Chlorine in water can end up irritating the skin. The irritated skin then becomes dry and itchy. This can affect the skin covering the entire body, including the skin on the head and the scalp.

Winter Woes

39.     Though winters are known to be a healthy season, the dry, harsh and cold winds of these months have a harmful effect on our skin, making it to appear dry, rough, flaky and chapped. The dry winds strip moisture from the skin, which means that the skin’s inherent protection has been lost. On top of this, hot water bath/shower and less oily soaps strip the skin of its thin layer of natural oil on the body. This loss of both moisture and oil leads to chapped skin, and the bacteria that is always present in the environment, attacks this cracked skin. This results in skin problems, that at a later date could lead to infections caused by bacteria, fungus and viruses. The outer later of the skin, called epidermis, constantly peels off and rejuvenates regularly. It is the most easy target of the vagaries of the environment.

 Dangerous Cocktail of Creams, Lotions and Peels

40.     A modern girl’s dressing table (and now also of boys) is littered with creams, lotions and gels. There are under-eye creams, anti-wrinkle serums, creams to remove stretch marks and sun blocks. Applying a cream with nutrients to your skin surface does not ensure that those nutrients actually penetrate into your skin cells. They may sit there until your next shower! These creams and other beauty products, according to dermatologists might make you smell good and temporarily soften your skin, but they have absolutely no impact on the health of your skin. Excessive and unnecessary use of cosmetics does not let your face and other skin breathe and the harmful chemicals they contain damage the skin cells and may sometimes pose the risk of allergic reactions, like itching and white spots. A healthy skin is far more attractive than one that has been made soft artificially by using a variety of wrongly promoted creams and lotions. There may be a feel-good factor to having someone apply creams and massage your face, but is it going to reduce wrinkles? The answer from the medical profession is a resounding No!

41.     Dermatologists are also dead against facials, microderm abrasion treatments and chemical peels prescribed liberally at local beauty parlours. When you peel a layer artificially, you are tampering with the natural rhythm of your skin. As for brands advertised and promoted as organic, chemical-free and made of plant extracts, dermatologists denounce them too as downright dangerous. The biggest question on the efficacy of anti-wrinkle creams is complicated. However, buying

any anti-wrinkle cream and applying it is not going to dramatically reverse the ageing process.

 Lack of Exercise

42.     Lack of exercise is a major causative factor in loosening the skin muscles and in promoting early ageing process. Exercise plays a vital part to keep your skin young and glowing by toning and firming the muscles and by improving the blood supply to facial and all other tissues of the skin. Exercise can slow and even reverse many components of the ageing process.

 Stress Overdose

43.     Chemicals like cortisol, released under stress, affect the functioning of every organ including the largest – skin. Skin-related physical changes when under stress may include sweating, tense muscles and skin rash. Our emotions have a direct bearing on the quality of our skin. Excessive worrying and negative and sad emotions make the skin appear lifeless and lusterless. While experts relate the occurrence of a number of skin problems to the stress factor, it is for everybody to see that unmanageable mental and physical stress and chronic anxiety and depression invariably result in dark circles under the eyes, early wrinkling and sagging of the body. Happy and balanced personalities stay young and more often have beaming and beautiful skin.

 Hormonal Changes in Women and Genetics

44.     Hormonal changes because of pregnancy, menopause, irregular cycles, and ovarian hormonal pills can be a cause of unhealthy skin. Genetically some persons may have very dry or very oily skin.

 Sleep Quality and Sleep Deprivation

45.     Studies show that not getting enough shut-eye sleep or getting poor quality of it on a regular basis can play havoc with our health, including skin. Sleep deprivation dehydrates you, which shows up in the thin skin around the eyes and can make dark circles even more visible. Adequate sleep, 7-8 hours a day for adults is very essential not only for the face but also for your entire body. Irregular rise-and-shine time disturbs hormonal system and can cause skin trouble. Moreover, what you may not be aware of is that while you have been sleeping on the sides, you have spent 7-8 hours each day pressing wrinkle into your face. A

dermatologist or plastic surgeon can almost recognise the side on which you tend to sleep because wrinkles are deeper on that side.

Facial Expressions

46.     While the sun is largely responsible for most of your wrinkles, it is your facial expressions that cause all the furrows that get printed on your face. If the skin is repeatedly folded in the same way by muscle contractions, permanent static lines will eventually form. It can be true of people who smile broadly and squint most of the time.

 Time and Gravity Wait for None

47.     Let’s face it. As time goes by, your skin will no longer have the bouncy tautness of your grandchild’s. Your life would hopefully have been an enriching roller coaster of emotions where your face had to stretch, scrunch up and do other acrobatics. This takes a toll on its elasticity. And gravity will also begin to pull down your skin, making it sag. Although gravity makes life possible (and helps people walk rather than flaat!), we are not often conscious of gravity’s effect on our appearance. And as we age, gravity pulls our skin down! With the natural thinning of our skin with age and loss of underlying fat comes drooping, especially of the eyelids and jowls.

SKIN PROBLEMS

48.     One of the first things people see when they look at you is your skin, so it is especially frustrating when you have visible skin problems. The main enemies of your skin problems include excessive exposure to sun; lack of proper nutrition; intake of processed, refined, fried junk foods and fizzy drinks; inadequate intake of water/fluids; smoking; excessive alcohol intake; environmental and chemical pollutants; lack of exercise and sedentary lifestyle; overdose of stress and worry; lack of quality sleep; and, last but not the least, cocktail of creams, lotions and peels. Our skin keeps us healthy and can tell us when we are sick! The following are some of the most common skin problems.

 Skin Blemishes (Acne, Black Heads, White Heads, Pimples)

49.     The oil glands, especially in the summer, work overtime leading to an accumulation of dirt, grime and clogged pores – all of which translates into all sorts of eruptions and infections and body odour. Having spotless skin does not come

easy. You have to keep your skin happy right from your teenage years. But teenage years always bring along with them acne and pimples, much to every teenager’s horror!

50.     Acne is a term that is commonly used to label the skin eruptions (looking like the moon surface) associated with adolescence, but not all skin eruptions are diagnosed as acne, which is a medical condition. Acne is particularly common during the teen years when the skin can produce a lot of oil which along with dead skin cells and/or bacteria clog pores of the skin. Acne does not happen due to one particular thing. It’s a condition of multiple things going wrong at the same time. Stress happens to be the biggest culprit. It is not just a psychological thing, but physiological too. Your body, constantly locked in a mode of mild agitation, can cause serious problems. It causes excess body chemicals that normally shouldn’t be there. This leads to acne. It is now believed that sudden rise in blood sugar levels can increase the production of androgens – the hormones that cause the zits (pimples). Avoiding the augmentation of blood sugar levels reduces acne by almost 20%, as reported in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition. Diet plays an important part. Stay clear of fats, chocolates, colas, soda, potato chips and cheese. Have plenty of water, fruits, vegetables, wholegrains and pulses and their sprouts, nuts and seeds. Your skin will thank you for it.

51.     There are three other types of skin blemishes. Blackheads occur when a pore becomes clogged with excess oil secreted by sebaceous (oil) glands, dirt and dead skin cells. The combination of oil and dead cells turns black when it is exposed to the air. Whiteheads result from a clogged pore that is not exposed to the air because the pore is covered by the epidermis. Pimples occur when clogged pores become infected with bacteria and oily skin releases sebum.

52.     Precautions to avoid skin blemishes – Wash your face several times a day with a gentle cleanser to reduce the amount of oil and bacteria on your face. Do not squeeze or pick at pimples which can cause infection and scarring. If you use make up on your skin, use products that are labeled “water based”. Oily cosmetics can clog the pores. Acne home remedy – When the redness begins,

putting ice on it for a few minutes will reduce swelling. Dunk a herbal tea bag in warm water and rub it all over your face till your face appears darker. Leave it on for three minutes, then rinse it with cold water and pat dry. The redness will go down.

Excessive Sweating, Body and Foot Odour

53.     Sweat is produced by sweat glands, which are present all over the body. The intensity of sweat and danger zones vary immensely from person to person. However, there are more sweat glands in some areas e.g. in the underarms, groin area and the face. Then again overweight people sweat more in the thighs and groin area, active people in the underarms and the hypersensitive in their hands and feet. Sweating is essential to keep the body cool. People who don’t sweat develop rashes and dry skin and their skin also tends to age faster. Sweat by itself is odourless. But when the heat activates the sweat glands to produce excessive sweaty excretions and the bacteria on the skin attacks these excretions, a chemical reaction is triggered to produce waste with the unpleasant and foul odour. A diet high in animal proteins and animal fats may make this odour even stronger. Daily bathing or showering helps to remove the smelly waste products. Foot odour can become offensive when the feet perspire heavily. To combat foot odour, be sure to wash your feet, especially between the toes, thoroughly everyday. Wearing cotton socks and open-weave shoes will help reduce foot perspiration. Precautions – (i) Cold shower brings the body temperature down in an instant. (ii) Wear light coloured loose cotton clothes. (iii) Avoid spicy food especially garlic, onion and cumin. (iv) Drink tea, coffee and alcohol in moderation only. (v) Drink plenty of water. (vi) Do not use deodorants – they block the sweat glands and prevent the skin from breathing. (vii) Too much application of a deodorant may also cause dermatitis (inflammation of the skin) resulting in itching, burning, swelling.

 Moles

54.     A mole is a small round dark area on the skin. Most moles are not harmful; in fact, they are sometimes called “beauty spots”. But just to be safe, report any changes in size, colour or condition of the mole to a doctor, because these changes may indicate skin cancer.

Athlete’s Foot and Jock Itch

55.     Athlete’s foot and a skin condition called ringworm are caused by microscopic fungi. Athlete’s foot gets its name from locker room shower cubicles where the fungus may grow. Jock itch occurs in males around the genitals. Symptoms of both conditions are redness and itching. Personal cleanliness, using shower shoes in public shower rooms, and keeping feet dry will help prevent the spread of the fungus.

 Warts

56.     A wart is a small growth caused by a virus. Often several warts will appear in the same area. Although there is no cure for warts, they are usually harmless. The best treatment for warts may be to have them removed by a doctor.

 Impetigo

57.     Impetigo is a common and highly contagious infection, caused by bacteria, which ruptures and exhibits bright yellow crusts. It begins in moist area of the body, in areas where there is friction, and in cuts. It is most common in children, but may also occur in teenagers and adults. It is best to seek medical attention for this condition.

 Psoriasis

58.     Psoriasis is a non-contagious chronic inflammatory immune system disorder in which well defined red, raised scaly patches appear on the skin surface of the extremities like elbows and knees, trunk, back and scalp and occasionally the eyes, nails and joints. Later the skin becomes dry and flakes off. Scaling occurs when cells in the outer layer of skin reproduce faster (upto 1,000 times) than normal and pile up on the skin’s surface. There are several forms of psoriasis. The most common form is plaque psoriasis in which lesions have a reddened base covered by silvery scales. It may be localised or generalised covering the whole body. Its causes are unknown, but obesity has been positively linked to the incidence of psoriasis. Naturo-Food Therapy has been found to be successful in curing this disease. Psoriasis is the result of over-acidification of the system from excess intake of sugar, carbohydrates and fats. Remedy for the same is alkalising the body and breaking the cycle of imbalance.

Sun Damage

59.     Over-exposure to the ultraviolet rays of the sun, especially around midday can be very dangerous by causing damage to your skin now and in the future. Some of the dangers include sunburn, wrinkles and skin cancer. Wearing protective clothing, such as hat, long sleeves and pants and use of umbrella reduces your skin’s exposure to the sun. Mild sunburn pain can be relieved by applying wet, cool cloths to your burned skin. (Also see The Sun Factor under Main Causes of Ageing and Wrinkles).

 Melasma/Chloasma

60.     Facial pigmentation, called Melasma or Chloasma, that usually develops over a period of time, is characterised by brownish blotchy discolouration seen symmetrically over the cheeks, forehead, upper lips, around the eyes and across the bridge of the nose, mostly in women. May occur spontaneously or in association with pregnancy and oral contraceptive pills. Pigmentation is due to overproduction of melanin by the pigment cells known as melanocytes. Although, melasma is a simple disorder without any severe medical implications, it can cause a severe cosmetic concern leading to a psychological stress. Melasma is usually of two types: epidermal or dermal melasma. Epidermal melasma is a result of pigmentation in the outer layer of the skin, has a well-defined border and is darker in colour. Dermal melasma, which is a result of pigmentation of the inner layer of the skin, has ill-defined borders and is light in colour.

 Dark/Age Spots

61.     May appear unappealing but otherwise harmless dark spots that usually occur on the forehead and the back of the hands and arms. Age spots should be called sun spots because they are caused by being out in the sun too much. Home Remedies – Apply a mixture of lemon and honey to lighten your skin slightly and to make it glow. Rubbing a piece of sliced onion on age spots also helps.

 Puffy Eyes

62.     Puffy eyes can be caused by a kidney problem, alcoholism, allergy or old age, because with age, the elasticity of the skin around the eyes decreases, forming bags in the area. But many young people who show no signs of any of the above mentioned problems also suffer from puffy eyes because of water retention or a deficiency of micronutrients. If puffiness is caused by sleep deprivation, it is temporary and you can get your eyes back to normal the moment you get enough sleep. For a very temporary solution, if you have a party or an interview lined up, a cold compress may help.

Dark Under-Eye Circles

63.     Hyper-pigmentation (too much melanin in the skin), swollen blood vessels in the thin skin under the eyes, fatigue, excessive sun exposure, dehydration and renal and thyroid problems are the more common causes of under-eye dark circles. There actually is not a permanent remedy for dark circles, especially, if you are pre-disposed to them. Home Remedies – (i) Place slices of cucumber or potato on the eyes to help lighten the skin up to 40%; (ii) Close your eyes and cover them with a cold cloth for about five minutes. That will help constrict your blood vessels, minimising darkness, and it may help minimise tissue swelling and eliminate some of the darkness; (iii) Apply a paste made from a teaspoon of tomato juice, ½ teaspoon lemon juice, a pinch of turmeric powder and a pinch of gram flour and wash after a few minutes.

 Dry Patches

64.     How many times have you finished one full bottle of moisturiser in an attempt to soften that stubbornly rough elbow or those eternally dry shins in vain? There can be many causes of skin dryness. Air-conditioning, the side effects of some medicines or even sensitivity to the sun are some, so it is necessary to rule out a medical condition before starting treatment. If you suddenly notice your shins getting very dry and swollen, you may be developing a thyroid problem. We also have to rule out the fact that the person is a chronic smoker. If it itches on the dry patch it could be eczema. For general dry skin apply almond oil before bath or shower so that the soap does not excessively dry the skin.

 Chapped Lips

65.     Lips are the most sensitive and often neglected part in a beauty regime. You slick on your lipstick and forget about the drying, chapping and damage that can occur just from even venturing outside! Thin and pink lips are the symbol of beauty and a healthy function of stomach and liver, whereas dark coloured and chapped lips represent a non-healthy function of stomach and liver and a dehydrated body. Chapped lips can have several causes, including dry weather, overexposure to the sun, lip biting and sucking, riboflavin (vitamin B-2) deficiency and ill-fitting dentures. One of the most common reasons for lips to feel dry is when they are being exposed to extremes of temperature, whether this is hot or cold. The lips may crack and feel very uncomfortable. Moderate degrees of dehydration will also cause lip dryness. Drinking too much caffeine or alcohol can often be responsible.

Sometimes it’s irritation from saliva, lipstick or food causing a minor allergic reaction that’s responsible for these symptoms. Overworking, stress, tiredness and recent infection all lower the immune system, which makes minor infections around the mouth and lips more likely. These can dry the lips out and the corners of the mouth are usually affected.

 Urticaria

66.     Urticaria, called “chhapaaki” in Hindi and “hives” in English, is characterised by raised rashes that itch, burn and sting. The red wheals may be small and separated from each other by areas of normal skin or may coalesce to form larger area of eruption. What exactly causes this problem is not absolutely clear. Some think urticaria is allergic in origin while others feel an autoimmune disorder is the main cause. Excessive emotional stress may also be a factor. Home Remedies – Usually, a mild episode or urticaria subsides if the patient is made to sweat under a warm blanket. A massage of mustard oil mixed with geru is also helpful. The patient should drink warm water. To manage recurrent attacks and to make body physiology free from any unknown allergens, triphla churan should be taken daily with water in a dose of 3 grams for a week.

 Vitiligo (Leucoderma)

67.     Vitiligo, considered to be an auto-immune pigmentation disorder, causes white patches (not sore or contagious) of irregular shapes and sizes to appear on the skin, usually on the exposed parts of the body e.g. hands, face, neck and arms and sometimes all over the body. The hair that grows in the areas affected by vitiligo usually turn white. In vitiligo, the pigment producing cells called melanocytes get destroyed. Clinical research shows that many vitiligo sufferers are deficient in folic acid, pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), vitamin C and vitamin B12. Both copper and zinc are also deficient in vitiliginous skin. The causes of vitiligo are not fully understood and at present there is said to be no cure in allopathy. However, natural plant-based nutritious diet taken over a long time is known to have cured the condition.

Skin Cancer (Melanoma)

68.     Excessive exposure to the ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun is widely considered to be the most important environmental factor in developing skin cancer. UV radiation causes mutations in the body’s DNA, which can lead to tumour formation and suppress the immune system, making the skin susceptible to

cancer. UV radiation also causes indirect damage through the formation of free radicals.

 Eczema

69.     Eczema is a general term for several types of inflammation of the skin. It is a condition that refers to a number of skin disorders in which the skin is red, irritated and at times also has fluid filled and oozing eruptions. Eczema may also cause mild-to-severe itching anywhere on the skin. Atopic dermatitis is the most common form of eczema and is marked by itchy inflamed skin. Scratching usually leads to redness, swelling, cracking, oozing of clear fluid, and at times there is a formation of crusts and scales. Individuals having atopic dermatitis have a strong inherited link associated with it. They usually have a family history of asthma, hay fever or other allergies. In skin allergies, the problem does not lie in the skin but in the body’s immune system, which becomes overactive. The treatment should be aimed at removing the internal cause, which has resulted in skin becoming hypersensitive, with Naturo-Food Therapy.

 Oily/Dry Skin

70.     Maybe your forehead shines a lot. Or maybe it looks dryer than sandpaper. Whether your skin is over-glossed or under depends on your genes, hormones status (particularly when you’re pregnant), stress, and the cosmetics you use. Home remedies – To make skin less oily, steam your face for three minutes before rinsing it with cold water. Do this once or twice each week to open pores and remove excess oils. People with dry, rough skin should use mild soap and lubricate their skin with a moisturiser just after showering to lock in the moisture. Any vegetable or cooking oil can be used to lubricate dry skin.

 Wrinkles

71.     With age, wrong diets, excessive sun exposure  and sedentary lifestyle, people’s skin becomes dryer and thinner, which makes it wrinkle. Home remedies – Sleep on your back as sleeping on your stomach with your face on the pillow can cause the skin to crease and wrinkle. Beat egg whites of two eggs and apply on your face for half an hour before going out. Wash off with cold water and pat dry.

Itching

72.     Afflictions of the skin like itching, boils, heat and allergic rashes, especially during monsoon weather, are generally caused due to lack of proper hygiene, use of synthetic clothing, hot or humid weather, coming in contact with a poisonous substance like congress grass, bitten by a poisonous organism, or allergic reaction to some drug or food. Home remedies – (i) A local application of coconut oil helps to combat superficial skin problems and also relieves itching; (ii) Massage of camphor mixed into coconut oil could relieve an itch; (iii) Powder prepared by pounding some raw turmeric can be taken half a teaspoon 2-3 times with water or cow’s milk. It has wonderful anti-allergic, anti-toxic as well as blood purifying properties; (iv) Massage of sodium bicarbonate and saindhav salt added to mustard oil helps in relieving the allergic itch and skin rash; (v) In half a bowl of curd, add two teaspoons of mustard oil and juice of one-fourth lemon. Apply this mixture to the affected body parts 5-10 minutes before bath. This again is useful in rashes and itching.

 Epidermolysis Bullora Simplex (EBS)

73.     This devastating genetic skin disorder results from mutations in the genes. The mildest form of EBS leads to blistering of the hands and feet since these are most susceptible to frequent abrasion. Researchers at the John Hopkins University School of Medicine, Baltimore found that the compound sulforaphane, whose natural precursors are found at high levels in broccoli and other green cruciferous vegetables could help treat this disorder.

 Dandruff

74.     Anyone who has had a dandruff problem will agree that the condition can be terribly embarrassing. The usual way to deal with dandruff is to buy an anti-dandruff shampoo. But its victims will agree that whether the shampoo works or not, dandruff certainly returns with a vengeance. Dandruff is a chronic scaling inflammation with variable itching of the skin occurring on the scalp and eyebrows. It can assume irritating condition associated with bacteria. The scalp may become red from scratching. One of the primary causes is increased sebaceous gland activity secreting excess oil, which binds the dead skin cells together to form visible flakes. Other primary cause of dandruff is improper nutrient deficient diet consisting of excess of junk animal fat-laden fried and processed foods and excess of

carbohydrates, sugar, salt, citrus, alcohol and deficiency of green vegetables, which provide digestive enzymes and essential fatty acids.

75.     Secondary causes can be seasonal change, allergy, emotional stress, acidity, constipation, poor elimination, fungus, strong irritational shampoos or hair treatments. Scalp irritation and rash may also develop from the use of strong acidic or alkaline shampoos. Most of the so-called dandruff fighting shampoos cause irreparable damage to the hair roots because of harmful synthetic ingredients in them.

76.     The treatment of dandruff has to be holistic with suitable natural diet if permanent cure is desired. So avoid consumption of excess carbohydrates and saturated animal fats and increase the consumption of primarily raw and steamed vegetables and vegetarian proteins from sunflower and pumpkin seeds, nuts, beans and tofu etc. Precautions and home remedies – (i) Keep the hair and scalp clean by regular brushing. Scalp should be thoroughly massaged everyday with fingertips just before or after brushing. This will stimulate circulation, dislodge dandruff and encourage hair growth. (ii) Make a mixture of 20% vinegar and 80% water and rub the scalp with it and leave for 20 minutes before mild shampooing. (iii) Massage the scalp with a little oil before shampooing. This will soften the flakes on the surface of the scalp. Two tablespoons of fenugreek (methi) seeds should be soaked overnight in water. The softened seeds should be ground into a fine paste in the morning. This paste should be applied all over the scalp and left for half an hour. The hair should be washed thoroughly with soap nut (ritha) solution or shikakai. (iv) The use of a teaspoon of fresh lemon juice for the last rinse, while washing hair, not only leaves the hair glowing but also removes stickiness and prevents dandruff. (v) Washing the hair twice a week with Bengal gram (kala chana) powder (besan) mixed with curd is another useful prescription. (vi) Dandruff can be removed by massaging the scalp for half on hour with curd which has been kept in the open for three days. (vii) Massaging the scalp with a few drops of lemon juice mixed with amla juice every night, before going to bed, will also get rid of dandruff. (viii) Exposure of the head to the rays of the sun is also a useful measure in the treatment of dandruff.

 SKINCARE WITH NATURO-FOOD THERAPY

77.     The fact is ageing begins at 30 but most people start worrying about it only when the wrinkles become deeper and more prominent. Since it is easier to stop than reverse skin damage, it makes sense to start caring and nourishing your skin

at a younger age, preferably at adolescent age when acne/pimples usually raise their head. Eating nutritious and balanced diet and avoiding junk food; drinking adequate amount of fluids/water; avoiding excessive sun exposure; keeping your digestive system in good order; having active lifestyle; doing regular exercise and having adequate rest/sleep will definitely help keep your skin radiant and young looking for longer.

Role of Nutrition in Skincare

78.     At every stage in human life proper nutritious diet plays an important role to keep a person fit and healthy with a radiant skin. Studies show that the right diet can definitely ward off wrinkles, banish breakouts and get your complexion glowing. Evidence is steadily mounting that what you eat or don’t eat on a daily basis, may indeed have a powerful effect on how well your skin regenerates itself and how radiant and smooth it looks – both now and years down the line. There is no one food that decides good skin or good complexion. However, if you eat right you will stay for ever young. What you eat affects every organ in your body and skin is no exception. Nutritious food is the one that contains all the nutrients – proteins, carbohydrates, fats, minerals and vitamins in correct proportions and in an adequate amount.

79.     Deficiencies of certain nutrients, such as minerals, vitamins and essential fatty acids are known to cause various forms of dermatitis and other skin conditions. Too little vitamin A or essential fats and you have dry, rough skin; and too little zinc is a recipe for greasy skin and stretch marks. We don’t realise that when it comes to good skin, what is put in the body is more vital than what you put on it. No amount of skincare and beauty products in the universe can keep your skin looking good, if you are not eating the right food. Luckily foods good for the skin are also good for your waistline!

80.     The skin is constantly attacked by free radicals, released in the body as the toxic end products of the metabolic process. The skin needs antioxidants to fight the free radicals and to rejuvenate and repair itself. Antioxidant vitamins A, C and E are compounds found in natural uncooked and unprocessed foods like fruits, vegetables, wholegrains, nuts, seeds, sprouts and herbs. Consume your food choices in moderation. Eating healthy can be a little hard and time consuming at first, but stick with it, and you will see the positive results. Not only will you look and feel absolutely, wonderful, but that will also expose a brand new person on the inside out. Thus for glowing gorgeous, youthful skin without plastic surgery or botox

injections, it makes sense to eat your way to fewer wrinkles, pimples, age spots and other beauty plagues!

 Benefits of Fruits and Vegetables in Skincare

81.     All fruits and vegetables are great for the health of the skin as well as the body – one just can’t have enough of these. One of the best ways to increase body’s immunity and thereby avoid or fight skin and other diseases and enhance your health is to include plenty of nutrient/antioxidant-rich fresh seasonal fruits and raw or steamed vegetables in your diet.

82.     Fruits and vegetables with easy digestibility, are superb for healthier skin, hair and eyes; heart health and better blood circulation and also for nervous and respiratory systems; and for tackling obesity. Antioxidant vitamins A, C and E in fruits and vegetables mop up excess “free radicals” that damage cells and tissues of the body. The alkaline salts present in fruits and vegetables neutralise most stomach acids and thus promote intestinal elimination of toxins and wastes. The fibrous matter in fruits and vegetables helps reduce cholesterol and keeps the digestive track running  smoothly.

83.     With the consumption of fresh fruits and raw/steamed vegetables, the elimination of toxins and cleansing capacity of the 24-hour workers, namely liver, kidneys, lungs and the skin, is greatly improved. Almost all the vital nutrients, minerals and vitamins of fruits and vegetables are assimilated directly in the blood stream, thereby affording much needed rest to these digestive assimilative 24-hour worker organs.

 Food-Vitamin-Mineral Connection with Skin

84.     Perhaps your skin’s biggest enemies are free radicals, produced by sun’s ultraviolet rays as well as wrong diet, sedentary lifestyle, stress and pollution. These nasties lead to skin inflammation, as well as the degradation of collagen – the support structure for your skin. But nature has designed some pretty clever foods that, if eaten regularly, act as natural wrinkle fighters. Antioxidant vitamins A, C and E; B-Vitamins; minerals like selenium and zinc; essential fatty acids, lycopene, work in their own way to create a safety net for your skin by reducing or neutralising skin damaging free radicals and environmental onslaught. If you care about your complexion, do yourself a favour and patronise the fruit and vegetable

market. Fruits and vegetables are among the richest and tastiest known sources of antioxidants on the planet. Researchers have proven that an antioxidant-laden diet may ward off premature ageing and many other ailments like cancer.

85.     Vitamin A – This skin vitamin comes in two forms: “retinol”, the true vitamin A found in meat, fish, eggs and dairy products and “betacarotene” which is a precursor from which vitamin A is made. Betacarotene, which gets converted to vitamin A in the body, is found in red, yellow and orange vegetables and fruits: carrots, fenugreek (methi) leaves, green leafy vegetables and lettuce, spinach, yellow squash, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, red and yellow bell peppers. Experts say that the health of our skin cells depends on dietary vitamin A. It increases healthy cell turnover as it promotes growth and repair of body tissues – thus improving the texture and appearance of ageing skin. Vitamin A may also protect you from sun damage. If you have dry skin, eating vitamin A laden fruits and vegetables is a very pleasant remedy to offset it because it helps the body to manufacture more keratin – a substance that protects the skin from the elements. Caution: Diabetics and thyroid sufferers need true vitamin A as they cannot convert betacarotene into vitamin A.

86.     Vitamin B – B for beautiful skin! Vitamin B plays a pivotal role in maintaining a healthy skin. Vitamin B complex promotes healthy skin cells in addition to preventing dry flaky skin and dermatitis (skin infections). Vitamin B1 (Thiamin) aids skin health by helping to keep the circulation normal. Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) usually vanishes ugly pigmentation or liver spots if generous amounts of B2-rich foods are taken over a period of time. Similarly oily skin and hair and small deposits of fat under the skin of cheeks, forehead and behind the ears due to severe deficiency of B2 may also disappear with sufficient intake of vitamin B-rich foods. Vitamin B3 (Niacin) helps skin retain moisture, so your complexion looks more smooth and fabulous. Vitamin B-rich foods include low fat dairy products, chicken breast, peanuts, oats, sunflower seeds, brewer’s yeast (not baking yeast), whole lentils, green leafy vegetables, bananas and many other fruits and vegetables.

 87.     Vitamin C – Another essential skin vitamin which aids in the production and maintenance of collagen for skin elasticity and protection of skin cells from free radical damage. Only if the support layer is nice and strong will the top layer be taut and wrinkle-free. Well-known sources of vitamin C are Indian gooseberry (amla),

citrus fruits like oranges, grapefruit and lemons, guava. Other lesser-known sources are broccoli, brussel sprouts, green leafy vegetables, red/yellow/green bell peppers, chillies, tomatoes, berries like strawberries, papaya, melon, kiwi fruit.

88.     Vitamin E – It is one of the top antioxidants for your skin to neutralise harmful free radicals in the body that cause tissue and cellular damage. The top layer of skin contains high levels of vitamin E which protects cell membranes. A strong cell membrane helps keep the skin hydrated. Vitamin E is essential for red blood cells, aids cellular respiration, guards against UV radiation damage and protects lung tissues from pollution. Vitamin E is excellent for the skin and body when consumed from natural sources such as low fat dairy products, liver, egg yolks, seafood, wholegrain products, wheat germ, fortified cereals, nuts, peanut butter, seeds, oats, vegetable oils like sunflower oil, green leafy vegetables, raw mangoes.

89.     Lycopene – This is a pigment that gives many fruits and vegetables their red colour. Studies indicate that lycopene combined with other cartenoids (like betacarotene in carrots and lutein in spinach) acts as a sunscreen and may reduce sunburn and ultraviolet ray damage to the skin. Lycopene is found in bright coloured berries, tomatoes and tomato products, plums, apricots, watermelon, beans, prunes, pink grapefruit, red wine.

90.     Minerals Selenium and Zinc – Selenium, an antioxidant mineral helps safeguard skin from sun damage and delays ageing by protecting skin quality and elasticity. Food sources of selenium include wholegrains, wheat germ, tuna, crab, Brazil nuts, almonds, green leafy vegetables, broccoli, cauliflower, garlic, onion, mushrooms. Zinc, another antioxidant and natural skin-friendly agent helps keep dull skin at bay. Zinc is found in ginger, onions, wholegrains, pecan nuts, Brazil nuts, meats, poultry and seafood. Prawns are packed with zinc, which reduces inflammation and help heal the blemishes quickly.

91.     Essential Fatty Acids (EFA) – If you have dry skin prone to inflammation and frequently dotted with white/black heads, you may be lacking in EFAs as they form skin’s natural oil barrier. EFAs are the foods that tighten and tone the skin. These are responsible for healthy cell membranes and help protect skin against sun damage. They are also anti-inflammatory and so help reduce acne and facial

redness. EFAs hold water, so the stronger they are, the plumper and younger your skin looks. Experts feel that balancing out Omega-3 and Omega-6 (two main EFAs) is the key for the health of the skin. While most people get Omega-6s in cooking oils, poultry and grains etc. Omega-3s are often deficient. For Omega-3, eat cold water oily fish such as tuna, salmon, sardines or mackerel, three times a week. Fish is not only good source of EFAs but an outstanding source of high quality protein that helps with cellular repair. Fish also contains a powerful antioxidant compound which stimulates nerve function and the muscles to contract and tighten under the skin. Thus fish is a magic bullet for great skin tone, keeping your face firm and contoured. For vegetarians, other good sources of Omega-3 are walnuts, flaxseeds, tofu and soya oils, olive oil, pumpkin and sunflower seeds. A handful of walnuts (30 grams) will give the same amount of Omega-3 as 100 grams of salmon.

92.     Proteins – Skin is predominantly protein. Deficiency of protein may be visible in slackened skin. For firm skin tissues foods like nuts, sesame, sunflower seeds, wholegrain cereals, pulses, legumes, fish, lean meats, poultry, eggs, skimmed dairy products should be consumed regularly.

93.     Green Tea – Polyphenol called catechin in green tea has antioxidant, anticancer and antibacterial properties and helps in fighting acne, reduces inflammation and provides protection to the cell membranes; all that may be beneficial to the skin. Researchers have found that green tea may be beneficial in preventing or treating skin cancer when taken internally or applied topically in a cream. It is also known to treat minor cuts and rashes and is an effective treatment for sunburn.

94.     Herbs and Spices – These contain several natural water-soluble phenolic acids and flavonoids that can protect the body and the skin against oxidative stress and inflammation. Add cinnamon to your cappuccino; drink a concoction of green tea, fresh mint, or basil (tulsi) or ginger; roast lamb with herbs such as rosemary, sage and thyme; and indulge in turmeric rich home-cooked foods.

95.     Diet for Dry Skin – (i) Aloe vera juice is one herb that benefits this type of skin the maximum. It can be taken in a capsule form or applied externally; (ii) Oil seeds like flaxseeds, sesame seeds, almonds, egg yolk, carrot and beetroot juice, liquorice (mulathee) in herb form should be eaten or chewed; (iii) Eat warm well-cooked foods; (iv) Eat enough roughage (but do not over do it); (v) Eat diet which prevents constipation.

96.     Diet for Oily Skin – (i) Have cucumber and bitter gourd (karela) juice on an empty stomach; (ii) Cut down oils and fats from the diet; (iii) Avoid all processed and junk foods and drinks like colas or very sugary foods as they adversely affect oily skins, even more than other skins.

97.     Diet for Acne-Prone Skin – (i) Avoid all refined foods; (ii) Cut down on too much dairy products, eggs, non-vegetarian foods; (iii) Eat salads, fruits and vegetables; (iv) Include more fibre in the diet like wheat bran and oat bran; (v) Eat sprouts two times a week; (vi) Hydrate well with 10 glasses of water a day; (vii) Have bitter gourd (karela) skin juice along with basil (tulsi) and bottle gourd (lauki) juice daily.

 HOME REMEDIES FOR SKINCARE

Harmful Effects of Cosmetic Products

98.     Most cosmetic products contain a cocktail of chemical ingredients, many of which have been reported as being irritant and toxic to the skin. Research shows that 15 to 20% of the population in the West is adversely affected by the chemicals in personal care and cosmetic products. Chemicals in cosmetics tend to accumulate in the fatty tissues of the body and in the organs, and do not move through the body as quickly as natural substances. Various studies have demonstrated the long-term harmful health effects of using chemical products and have shown increased risk of lung cancer; high risk of cancer in the uterus and ovary; and high risk of breast, digestive and respiratory cancer in beauticians who are exposed to chemical products  daily.

 Beneficial Effects of Natural Substances

99.     Humans are organic beings and our bodies like organic or natural substances and process them well. Natural based products tend to work better over a longer period of time than synthetic cosmetics. A synthetic product takes over from the skin’s natural functions whereas a natural based product works within the skin’s functions to stimulate the skin to work to its maximum potential naturally. The use of only natural based products in conjunction with a slight lifestyle change – for example, healthy diet, regular sleep patterns, regular exercise and use of a

comprehensive natural skincare regime to maintain flawless skin, can arrest the ageing process and contribute to that important sense of overall wellbeing.

Home Cleansers/Scrubs for Skin

100.   Whatever the type or texture of your skin, it requires thorough cleansing. Before it is cleansed, the skin surface is covered with a film of dirt, stale sweat and oil deposits, stale make-up and pollutants. All these are potent skin irritants. They not only upset the normal balance of the skin, but also hamper its natural functions. Cleansing assumes even more importance to city dwellers, who have to contend with an increasingly polluted environment. Remember that home recipes should not be kept for more than 2 to 3 days.

101.   Rosewater Cleanser – Rosewater helps cleanse the skin and remove surface dirt and oil. To make your own rosewater, gently heat fresh desi rose petals in some distilled water and let the mixture cool before using.

102.   Cleansing for Oily Skin – Mix rice flour with curd or rose water and apply on the face. Rub gently using small circular movements. Leave the mixture on for a few minutes and then rinse off with plenty of plain water. A crisp lettuce leaf rubbed directly on the skin will help combat oiliness. Add a solution of boiled lettuce leaves to your bath water, it will also promote better sleep.

103.   Cleansing for Dry Skin – (i) Take half a cup of milk and add five drops of any vegetable oil (sesame, olive or sunflower oil). Put this in a bottle and shake well. Apply it on the skin using cotton wool and then wipe off with moist cotton wool. Keep leftover mixture in the fridge. (ii) Soak a washcloth in icecold whole milk, and lay it across the face for 10 minutes. The natural lipids in the milk will plump up and rehydrate your skin, while the cool temperature and lactic acid will tone down redness, if any, and remove flecks.

104.   Cleanser for Oily and Combination Skin – To one-fourth teaspoon of lemon juice, add one teaspoon each of cucumber juice and cool milk. Apply on the face and wash it off with plain water after 15 minutes. Egg white is also a good cleanser. Egg white can be mixed with lemon juice. Wash it off after 15 minutes.

105.   Cleansing Scrubs for all Skin Types – (i) Take one teaspoon ground dry orange and lemon peels, one teaspoon oatmeal and one teaspoon ground almond. Add one teaspoon rose water or yoghurt. Apply on the face and rub gently with circular movements. Then wash off with water; (ii) Oatmeal mixed with curd makes a good cleanser, especially for oily skin. Apply it on the face. After 20 minutes rub gently on the skin and then wash off with water; (iii) Make a paste of three to four gooseberries. Add one teaspoon turmeric powder and a teaspoon of sesame or olive oil. Mix well and apply to the face. This makes the skin clear and improves the complexion. Note: On rougher places with a lot of texture, like feet, arms and legs, buff with a back-and-forth motion. Where you are softer, like your butt, tummy, chest, and face, use circular motions. Caution – If you have acne, pimples or rash, facial scrubs should not be applied on them. You can apply them on other areas and with blackheads. For dry skin, facial scrubs should be used only once a week. For oily skin, they may be used three or four times a week.

Skincare in Winters

106.   In winters right from dry skin to chapped lips the problems are galore. But to make you look pretty and stand apart, some home remedies that can help you curb most of your beauty troubles are: –

i. Cleanser for dry skin – To a tablespoon of cold milk add 2 drops of any vegetable oil (olive, sesame or sunflower oil). Mix well. Dip cotton wool in it and use it to wipe the skin. You can make this in a larger quantity for 2 or 3 days, but keep it in the refrigerator.

• ii. Honey – To make your face soft and smooth, mix honey with one teaspoon of orange juice and apply on the face. Wash it off after 20 minutes. Honey suits all skin types. For oily and acne-prone skin, mix one teaspoon honey with one teaspoon curd and a little turmeric.
• iii. Cabbage and carrots – Cabbage is rich in vitamins and minerals. Boil cabbage in enough water. Cool the liquid and use it to wash the face. Cabbage is rich in minerals and is good for all skin types. Then grate carrots and apply on the face for 15 to 20 minutes. Wash off with plain water. Carrot is rich in Vitamin A.
• iv. Face Mask for dry skin – Take half a teaspoon honey, one teaspoon rose water and one teaspoon dried milk powder. Mix into a paste and apply on the face. Remove after 20 minutes with water. Applying mayonnaise or egg yolk on the skin also helps to relieve dryness.

• v. For nails, hands and feet – (i) For hands and nails, mix almond oil and honey in equal parts and massage into the nails and cuticles. Leave on for 15 minutes and wipe off with a moist towel; (ii) Mix together 3 tablespoons of rose water with one-tablespoon glycerin. Apply on hands and feet and leave for half an hour. Wash it off with plain water; (iii) Rub a small amount of sesame or corn oil over dry skin on your hands or feet to add moisture and seal it into the area.
• vi. Hair care – (i) Heat pure coconut, sesame or olive oil and apply on the scalp and hair. Then dip a towel in hot water, squeeze out the water and wrap the towel around the head, like a turban. Keep it on for five minutes. Repeat the hot towel wrap for three or four times. This helps the hair and scalp absorb the oil better; (ii) To add shine and softness to dry, dull hair, take a cup of honey, half-cup of olive oil or sesame seed (til) oil and two tablespoons of lemon juice. Stir very well and keep it overnight. Then store in a jar. Massage a little of this mixture into the hair before your shampoo. Use the hot towel wrap method for better penetration. Shampoo hair after an hour; (iii) For dry and damaged hair, use castor oil. Add one teaspoon of castor oil to two tablespoons pure olive oil or coconut oil. Massage it into the scalp and hair. Comb the hair to make sure it has been properly distributed. Follow the hot towel wrap procedure 3 or 4 times; (iv) Applying mayonnaise on the hair helps to nourish and soften it. It can be applied half an hour before washing the hair; (v) Beat two egg yolks in one-fourth cup warm water. Massage it into the scalp. Rinse out thoroughly after half an hour.

 107.   Handy Tips – In order to preserve the delicacy of the skin and to prevent any problem arising due to cold weather, here are some more tips which can help a better skincare in winters: –

Avoid exposing skin to freezing temperatures and drying cold winds in winters by wearing adequate warm clothing when going out. Care should be taken to cover the hands, feet, ears and head.

• i. Woolens should be worn over the cotton underwear. A direct contact of woolen or synthetic clothes with the skin can aggravate the problem.
• ii. Do not use any harsh soap as dry skin is already battling with the dryness of winter. Instead, select a mild one that suits your skin.

• iii. Bathe or shower in luke-warm water. Hot water removes natural oil from the skin making it dry and itchy. Limit your showers to 10-15 minutes. After shower, dry yourself gently with a cotton towel.
• iv. 10-15 minutes’ pre-shower massage with oils like mustard, coconut or olive improves the texture and toxicity of the dry skin, removes dryness and maintains the youthfulness of the body.
• v. If you can’t regularly massage your body, put a few drops of essential oil, like coconut or olive oil, in your bath water.
• vi. If you need to scrub yourself at all, mix gram flour in warm milk and gently rub the mixture against the skin. You can also add a pinch of turmeric and lemon juice to the mixture.
• vii. The skin of the feet tends to dry and crack more in the winters. Treating it with a relaxing soak of warm water at night not only keeps the feet looking good but also facilitates a sound sleep.
• viii. Above all, most importantly, consume a wholesome and nutritious diet. It should include moderate amounts of milk, butter and cheese and plenty of fresh fruits vegetables, wholegrains, sprouts, nuts and seeds.

 Skincare in Summers

108.   Handy Tips – Some useful tips to avoid skin problems in summers are: –

Take a banana in a bowl and mash it. You can apply this mixture on your face and hands and leave on for about 15 minutes for soft and supple skin. The same works with tomatoes.

• i. Take a bowl of yoghurt, add to it some turmeric or oatmeal, and use it as a mild scrub on your skin after a hard day’s work.
• ii. Applying mashed papaya and washing it off with cold water after ten minutes will also leave your skin glowing.
• iii. Cucumber has always had a cooling effect on the eyes, but put a layer of fresh grated cucumber on your skin to feel fresh instantly. It acts as a toner.
• iv. Splashing lots of cold water on your face once a day, especially at the end of the day has an amazingly cooling effect.
• v. To stop the itch and burn, mix a bit of dry oatmeal and cool water. Make it slightly slushier than if you were going to eat it, and spread the mixture carefully on your sunburned skin. This will relieve the pain and help reduce swelling.

Hair Damage

109    Causes of hair damage – We all agree that healthy hair is basic to beauty. Yet, we see too much hair damage. Damaged hair is usually brittle and tends to break off easily, or acquire split ends. In fact, it weakens the hair and triggers off hair loss. It is therefore important to avoid hair damage as far as possible and also treat damaged hair. If your hair does not look as good as it used to, you can easily identify the signs. They lack lusture, become rough, have split ends and are brittle. In case of hair damage, the basic structure of the hair is usually affected. The scales may be ruffled, or even stripped off in an uneven manner, giving the hair a rough texture and a dry, dull, unmanageable look.

110.   We tend to forget that the hair is actually like a delicate fabric and should be treated as such. Instead, we follow styling techniques that can spell disaster. Indeed, procedures like dyeing, waving, straightening, bleaching, contribute to most of the hair damage that we see. They also weaken the hair by destroying its natural elasticity and resilience, leading to hair breakage and even hair loss. Some amount of damage is also caused by excessive use of hair dryers, wire brushes and the habitual tying back of the hair tightly. Nylon and wire brushes, wire rollers and tight tying of the hair with rubber bands can all cause enough trauma over a period of time, to lead to hair damage. Other causes of hair damage are excessive exposure to the sun and the use of harsh shampoos.

111.   Treatment for damaged hair – Though the cause of damage in individual cases is not difficult to establish. The first thing to do is to discontinue the procedures till health is restored to the hair. As damaged hair is in a fragile condition, it should be treated gently. Discontinue the use of brushes and use a wide toothed comb that has smooth edges. This is more so in the case of wet hair. The best way is to start at the ends and work upwards. Avoid pulling or stretching the hair. To some extent, the treatment of damaged hair is dependent on the hair type. In cases of excessive dryness, mix one part of castor oil with two parts coconut oil. Heat and apply. Remember to apply on the ends too. Then dip a towel in hot water, squeeze out the water and wrap the hot towel around the head, like a turban. Keep it on for 5 minutes. Repeat the hot towel wrap 3 or 4 times. This helps the hair and scalp absorb the oil better.

112.   Avoid vigorous massage and rubbing when you apply oil. Massage the scalp gently, using only the fingertips. Actually move the scalp in small circular movements. This helps to stimulate blood circulation to the follicles. Keep the oil on overnight and wash the hair the next day. Use a mild herbal shampoo to wash the hair. Shampoos containing herbal extracts of amla, reetha, shikakai, brahmi, bhringaraj, bael help to improve the health and texture of the hair. Wash the hair with luke warm or cool water. Avoid very hot water. It is important to dry the hair the right way to prevent further damage. Do not rub the hair with your towel. Wrap it around the head and allow it to absorb excess water. Comb out the tangles with a wide toothed comb, starting from the ends and working upwards. Allow the hair to dry natually.

113.   Regular conditioning is extremely important. Hair conditioners, hair serums and henna applications help to soften the hair and improve its look and texture. They also help to protect the hair. Home remedies for deep conditioning – (i) Take 2 tablespoons honey, one tablespoon sesame seed (til) oil and one egg yolk. Mix together and apply on the scalp and hair. Wear a plastic shower cap and leave on for an hour before washing the hair. (ii) If the hair has become extremely dry, rough and brittle, mix together one egg, two tablespoons castor oil, juice of a lemon and one teaspoon pure glycerin. Mix them well and massage it into the scalp and hair. Wash your hair after half an hour. Rinse well with water to remove all the residue.

 Preventing Hair Fall

114.   There are several reasons for hair fall including your genes (in which case it happens with age); severe illness; post pregnancy; rapid weight loss; cancer chemotherapy and prolonged anxiety and stress. Other reasons include an infection of the scalp and severe dandruff. In many cases, hair fall can be cured by these quick and easy home remedies: –

• Apply almond oil mixed with olive oil on the scalp with a few drops of lemon juice. Leave this on overnight and wash it out the next morning.
• Eat five almonds, one teaspoon flax seeds, one walnut and one fig daily.
• Brahmi oil helps stimulate hair roots and promote hair growth.
• Eat healthy proteins like sprouts, tofu and soya flour.
• Take zinc supplements or zinc-rich foods to improve hair growth.

• Soak fenugreek (methi) seeds in water overnight. Apply this as a hair pack the next morning on the roots of your hair.
• Drink a vegetable juice of carrot, amla, curry patta, and ginger. Or else make a juice of spinach, lettuce and beetroot.
• Seeds of all kinds are good for the hair. Try sesame (til), flax seeds, almonds, walnuts, sunflower seeds and pumpkin seeds.
• Wheat germ is also good for the hair and skin. Mix a teaspoon of wheat germ with your atta and have it in chapaties.

However, you must avoid white flour (maida) and other refined flours and fried foods; excessive smoking and drinking; tight hairstyles; hair rollers and blow drying in a very hot setting; and overuse of setting gels and hair sprays; harsh hair colours; excess sugar and chemicals; irregular eating habits and lack of sleep; stress and harsh shampoos.

 Acne-Fighting Mask

115.   Stop summer greases with a simple, natural facemask. Certain seasonal fruits, such as pineapple and papaya, are loaded with enzymes that help dissolve oil and slough off dead skin. Apply the mask once a week to sop up acne-causing grease. Cut a papaya in half, and throw away the seeds. Scoop out the fruit, and mash it. Beat an egg until it’s frothy, and then mix it with the papaya (the egg helps the mask stick). Add half a cup of crushed pineapple to the egg/papaya mixture, and whip together. (Tip: You can also mix the ingredients in the blender or a food processor for an extra smooth consistency and to save yourself some work). Cover your face with the mixture, avoiding the sensitive eye area, from your brows to the tops of your cheekbones. Leave it on for about 10 minutes before rinsing thoroughly.

 Banish Age Spots and Pimples

116.   There are two types of spots that detract from youthful skin: age spots and pimples. Selenium deficiency, along with sun exposure and sugar in the diet, is believed to be a factor in age spots. To stop age spots you should eat selenium rich foods, including garlic, onions, brazil nuts, macadamia nuts, almonds, wholegrains, wheat germ, tuna, crab, broccoli, cauliflower, mushrooms and green leafy vegetables. Skin is less likely to suffer from oxidative damage when selenium levels in the body are high.

117.   Eating garlic, which also contains vitamin C and sulphur, can help banish blemishes. Zinc is another natural substance that is necessary for good skin. Rich sources of zinc are oysters, ginger root, lamb, pecan nuts, Brazil nuts, onions, meats and poultry, seafood and wholegrains.

118.   To get rid of pimples, soak the seeds of Indian gooseberry (amla) in water for three to four hours. Grind to make a paste. Apply on the face and wash after 15-20 minutes.

Toning the Skin

119.   Tone the skin daily with rose water. Toning stimulates blood circulation and makes your skin glow. Keep rose water in a bowl in the fridge and soak cotton wool pads in it. Use them to wipe the skin. Then, stroke the skin gently with them. On the cheeks, use outward and upward movements, ending each stroke at the temples and applying gentle pressure. On the forehead, start from the centre and go outwards on each side, again ending at the temples. For the chin, use circular movements. Pat the skin briskly too.

 Face Masks

120.   Use a facemask twice a week. (i) Mix half a cup of ripe papaya pulp with 2 teaspoons oatmeal, egg white and one teaspoon each of almond paste, honey and yoghurt. For dry skin, add egg yolk. It should be a thick paste that does not drip. Apply it on the face, avoiding the lips and area around eyes. Wash it off after 20 to 30 minutes; (ii) A facial mask made out of grated carrots can hydrate your skin and clear dead skin cells. And, if you wash your face with the juice, it will clear blemishes. (iii) Slices of tomatoes, oranges and grapefruits promote external and internal health. Slice and eat a bit of the fruit. Step 1: Rub a few of the slices on your face. Step 2: Leave the fruit pulp and juice on your face for 20 minutes. Step 3: Rinse with warm water. Fruit acids brighten the complexion and help your face shed old cells. Test the fruit on a small patch of skin before applying to the entire face. (iv) Whether mixed together or applied separately, honey and raw eggs make a great facial mask. Honey tightens pores and moisturises the skin. Let the food harden and then rinse with warm water. (v) Pluck and open an aloe plump leaf from one of your aloe plants. Smear the inner goop on your face and let the green film

stiffen for 15 minutes. When you remove the aloe film from the face, your skin will feel smoother and tighter.

Essential Oils and Skin
121. Since the beginning of recorded history, aromatic plants have been used as scents to beautify and heal the body. By looking to nature with all its benefits and beauty, we can take advantage of the wisdom of the ages and benefit from this very precious gift of aromatic essential oils. The essential oils – volatile oils derived from plants etc with their characteristic smell like rose and sandalwood oil – have the following benefits for the skin: –

• Pure natural essential oils dislodge dead skin cells and eliminate superfluous particles, using the lymphatic system.
• They easily penetrate the skin into the blood stream.
• They have antiseptic properties, which protect the skin.
• Essential oils are regenerative and stimulate cell growth.
• They regulate the sebaceous glands and keep the skin moisturised.
• For a fragrant body massage oil, mix five drops of sandalwood essential oil and five drops of rose essential oil to 50 ml of pure sesame or olive oil. (If using only one essential oil then add 10 drops). For itchy skin caused by dryness, add two tablespoons vinegar to a mug of water and rinse the areas after your oil massage and bath. Caution: Do not use essential oils by themselves. They must be added to carrier (pressed) oils like sesame and olive.

Rose Water
122. One of the most important properties of rose, used for cosmetic purposes since ancient times, is its beneficial action on the skin. It promotes blood circulation to the skin surface and tones the capillaries. It also has an astringent action, closing the pores and reducing surface oil. This is the reason why rose water is one of the best-known skin fresheners. Rose water can be used for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

• Rose water is one of the best natural skin toners. Chill some rose water in a bowl. Using cotton wool, wipe the skin with it. Then pat the skin briskly with the rosewater soaked cotton wool pads. It helps to keep the skin healthy and youthful.

• For oily skin, add lemon juice and rose water in equal quantities. Dip cotton wool in it and use it to wipe the face. It will help to remove the surface film of oil and stale sweat and leave you with a cool and fresh feeling.
• For oily skin, mix multani mitti with rose water into a paste and apply. Wash it off when it dries.
• For normal to dry skin, mix half teaspoon of pure glycerin with 50 ml rose water. Keep it in a glass bottle. Apply a little of this mixture daily on the face. It can also be applied on hands and feet to moisturise. In winter, when oily skins feel dry, this lotion may be used to moisturise the skin daily.
• A few drops of rose water can be added to sandalwood paste and applied on rash, pimples, acne or boils, to soothe and cure. It helps to reduce inflammation.
• Rose water can also be added to face packs and scrubs. Almond meal can be used with a little rose water as a facial scrub. For oily skin with black heads, mix rice flour with rose water and use as a facial scrub. Apply on the face and rub gently on the skin with small circular movements. Leave on for a few minutes and wash off with water.
• Rose water can also be used to complete the skin cleansing process. After using cleansing cream and gel, wipe the skin with rose water, using cotton wool. It removes the last traces of cleanser and other residues and leaves the skin fresh and clean. It also helps to improve skin texture and close the pores.
• Dip cotton wool pads in rose water and use as eye pads, to remove fatigue and brighten the eyes.

FRUITS FOR SKINCARE
123. Papayas – Papayas contain the enzyme papain, making it an excellent cleanser. It also helps revive blemished and undernourished skin. It is particularly good for oily skin and also lightens skin colour. Use ripe papaya pulp as it is or mix with oatmeal, honey or curd and apply on your face for 10 minutes. Rinse off with cold water when dry. Put a mix of papaya and cucumber pulp under the eyes to minimise dark circles.

124. Apples – Apart from vitamins and minerals, apples also contain pectin and tannin that help tone and tighten the skin and improve blood circulation. Apples are specially effective for those with sensitive and fair skin. To take care of sunburnt skin, add a teaspoon of glycerine to apple pulp and apply on your face for fifteen minutes. Wash off with cold water. For tired and undernourished skin, mix two teaspoons of grated apple, two pieces of mashed papaya, one teaspoon of fresh

cream and a teaspoon of China clay. Apply the mixture to a clean face and leave for 15 minutes. Wash off with cold water for healthy-looking skin.

125.   Bananas – Fresh, ripe bananas make excellent face masks. Bananas not only tighten and cleanse pores, they also revitalise dry skin. Mash two ripe bananas with a tablespoon of honey. Smooth over the face and leave for 10-15 minutes, Rinse with cold water to reveal soft, supple and hydrated skin.

126.   Oranges – The citrus family is best known for its astringent and toning properties. Rub fresh orange peel on your skin to tighten it and lighten the colour. Take the juice of two oranges and freeze it in an ice tray. Rub your face with the frozen orange juice cubes whenever you need to look good after a tiring day. The orange juice will give your tired, dull and oily face an instant pick-me-up sheen.

127.   Pomegranates – Pomegranates are excellent for oily and combination skin. Rich in AHA, pomegranate juice acts as an astringent and is a natural toner too. Pound pomegranate seeds and use as a face scrub. This will remove excess oil and make your skin look fresh. Using cottonwool, massage around 50 ml pomegranate juice on your face for 10 minutes. Wash off for an instant glow.

GUIDELINES TO PREVENT SKIN AGEING AND WRINKLES

How Ageing and Wrinkles Occur?

128.   As we get older, our body processes slow down. This affects the ability of the cells to produce new cells and also causes a drop in cellular energy preventing them from repairing existing damage effectively. The resultant damage becomes cumulative and results in visible signs of ageing such as crows feet, loss of skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, chicken necks and bat wing arms, to name but a few. Add to this the damage caused by excessive sunlight, wrong diet, harmful effects of beauty products, dehydration, sedentary lifestyle and lack of exercise, inadequate rest and sleep – you have a cocktail of causative factors for premature ageing of the facial and other body skin.

129.   Irregularity in daily chores and following a disorderly lifestyle can put our health in jeopardy. Overwork, lack of rest and improper sleep pattern has a telling effect on our skin. One should adopt a balanced exercise schedule, including yoga and meditation, in one’s daily plan. Get adequate sunlight as some gentle sun is nourishing to the skin. Ayurveda is known to believe that apart from a wholesome and balanced diet, adherence to a proper daily and seasonal routine and a

disciplined lifestyle is the best anti-ageing support for every organ and system of the body, including the skin.

130.   Taking care of our appearance, trying to look as young as we feel, is neither a vanity nor a luxury; it is essential to your health. We maintain our homes and our possessions, repairing scratches and dents, and repainting when necessary. So, shouldn’t there also be a greater interest in maintaining our health, particularly our outward appearance and, more especially, our skin? We can learn to protect our skin from the causative factors which can do harm to your skin.

131.   Remember that the signs of ageing did not appear overnight, so they will not be reversed overnight. It takes a little time and commitment from you to take care of your skin. Below are some basic guidelines and handy tips to keep your skin healthy and glowing.

 Cutout Junk Foods and Beverages

132.   Consuming refined and processed fat-laden junk foods and fizzy beverages like colas – all of which have harmful chemical additives and preservatives – is a primary cause of obesity, skin and a host of other problems. Junk foods include commercially prepared pizzas, burgers, noodles, French fries, chhole bhature, papri chat, samosas, pakoras, tikkies, namkeens, potato crisps, cakes, pastries, biscuits, sweets, confectionery, ice creams, packaged and bottled fizzy drinks, fruit juices and colas etc. etc. Have conservatively home-cooked food and traditional drinks like lemon water, butter milk (lassi), barley water, sattu or nuts/seeds milk (shardaee).

 Avoid or Limit “Three White Poisons”

133.   The so-called three white poisons are sugar, white flour (maida) and salt.

Sugar – It has zero nutrients, its digestion robs many of your body’s precious resources – vitamins B and C, calcium, chromium, magnesium, zinc – and thus depresses the immune function, which reduces the body’s ability to avoid skin problems. So limit your sugar intake by avoiding foods and drinks containing refined sugar.

White Flour (maida) – When a wholegrain like wheat is refined, its nutrition profile changes for the worse. Refining gets rid of the vitamins and minerals, fat, protein and fibre as all these are contained in the bran – the outer coating of cereals and grains. Eating refined flour has almost the same effect as eating table sugar.

Salt – Excessive salt intake will cause the body to hold extra fluids in the blood and around the cells. Water retention can cause bloating, painful swollen joints and puffy eyes.

134.   It is believed that the intake of excessive salt as well as sugar is the worst thing a human being can do. We have enough salt and sugar needed for the body in natural foods like wholegrains, fruits and vegetables. That is why, when it comes to eating, it is wise to stick to basic natural foods.

 Limit Caffeine Intake

135.   Caffeine, the energy booster in coffee, tea, alcohol and cocoa dehydrates the skin, which thins it, making the layer of cellulite beneath it more apparent. So limit caffeine and drink herbal teas instead.

Look after Your Colon Health

136.   Most disorders originate from the stomach, and the skin shows it all. If your stomach has been taken over by toxins, it shows up on your skin in the form of pigmentation, blemishes or dullness. The colon is the place where your body absorbs water and finally expels body waste. People who are chronically constipated due to wrong diets and inadequate intake of fluids/water have dull and lifeless skin and suffer from skin problems, pimples on the face, dark circles under the eyes. To ensure good health, eat fibre-rich natural foods and drink plenty of water. In case of constipation take herbs like dried rose petals, triphla and amla. Go on a detox diet once every 15 days.

Keep Your Body Hydrated

137.   Water is a precious gift to mankind and is rightly termed as nectar or fountain and elixir of life. About two-thirds of your body weight is water (65-70% in males, 55-65% in females). It is essential for our digestion, absorption and elimination systems. Metabolic processes, such as energy production, muscle building and fat burning require water. Your blood is about 90% water and this is your body’s transport system for transporting nutrients around the body.

138.   Adequate intake of water/fluids flushes out impurities from your skin through sweating, leaving you with a young looking clear and glowing complexion. Thus water is the best medicine for skin problems as it cleanses and detoxifies the body. Water keeps the skin cells hydrated, assists the nutrients to flow in and the toxins to flow out of the cells, giving you a healthy and clean looking skin. The right amount of water is necessary for skin’s elasticity, texture and suppleness. Even without sweating the body is losing water through the skin and this needs to be replaced. Water has the power to hydrate, revitalise, detoxify and oxygenate the skin. So, the importance of drinking at least 2½ – 3 litres of water/fluids (more in hot weather and if you exercise) daily can never be emphasised enough. (Caffeinated or sugary beverages like tea, coffee, alcohol, colas etc do not count towards daily requirement, as they throw the thirst mechanism out of gear). Drinking water at regular intervals will keep your face healthy and as a bonus will also protect you from many other diseases. Increased warm water intake regulates the excess oil present in an acne-prone skin. If you don’t like the taste of water, add some lemon juice. Alternatively, drink herbal teas, like basil (tulsi), ginger, chamomile, mint etc without sugar and milk.

 Avoid Excessive Sun Exposure

139.   The sun is responsible for about 90% of the appearance of skin ageing. Overexposure to the sun damages the facial tissues. It also produces blemishes like freckles, ageing spots and pigmentation. A person can help minimise wrinkling by avoiding excessive exposure to the sun, especially during mid-day. The rays of the sun are strongest between 10 AM to 4 PM as the shortwave, ultraviolet rays (UVB), which causes wrinkling peaks during this time of the day. In simple terms, if your shadow is shorter than your height, the risk of sunburn is much higher since the sun is directly overhead. Sunrays are stronger at higher elevations (mountains) and low latitudes (near the Equator). Frequent shade breaks are recommended when the sun’s rays are strong. Carrying an umbrella might look dowdy to some, but it will provide you protection from the strong rays of the sun and in turn reduce wrinkles, roughness, blotches and other signs of ageing from your face. Therefore, do make it a habit to carry an umbrella – it cuts down the sun’s rays by about 30% – and wear protective clothing.

Exercise Regularly

140.   Exercise improves the functioning of all the physiological systems of the body – it can stimulate digestion, improve your circulation, aid detoxification, strengthen your heart, keep bones strong and stimulate the nervous system. Exercise plays a very vital part to keep your face skin young and glowing by revving up the oxygen and blood supply to the face tissues. With exercise, even your skin gets a workout with all that sweating and stretching. When you exercise, the blood rushes to your skin and creates a warm, healthy glow. Exercise delivers fresh oxygen to the skin all over your body through the accelerated blood circulation. Yogic exercises that are good for the skin are those that bend the body and especially those poses which tense and relax the muscles, and which gently exercise the heart (as in Plow pose and Cobra pose). Headstand (Sheersh Asan) will not only keep your face very young, it also makes your hair strong because of enhanced blood circulation. Pranayam and aerobic exercises are also most helpful for a healthy skin.

 Have Adequate Sleep and Relaxation

141.   Sleep deprivation dehydrates and leads to early fine lines, a gaunt look, puffy eyes and dark circles. During sleep is the time when the body repairs, rejuvenates and restores itself. Indulging in some regular hobbies or relaxation techniques and quality shut-eye are some essentials to maintain good, healthy skin even in your twilight years. Therefore, good quality sleep of about 7-8 hours per day is very essential for the face health but also for your entire body. If that may not be possible, try meditation – when done properly, meditation offers the benefits of a long period of sleep in a much shorter time frame. Avoid stress and strain by not being over ambitious and cultivate positive attitude. Avoid anxiety as it causes fine lines, dark circles and makes us age faster. So keep smiling – laughter is the best medicine, after all!

142.   You should also keep your facial muscles in a state of relaxation as much as possible. This can be done by more smiling and laughter, and less squinting, being sweet instead of sour, and by soft and gentle touching massage. The consistency of your sleep schedule is a key factor in how you look.  A regular rise-and-shine

time helps regulate hormones so they don’t cause skin problems. Naps also help: just 15 minutes may even out hormone levels and improve skin colour.

143.   Thousands of years ago, Chinese women recognised that they could prevent creases appearing on their faces by sleeping on their backs, using concave porcelain pillows. You don’t need to suffer so much to learn not to bury your face in your pillow! You can easily learn to sleep in a different position. If models and actresses can sleep on their backs, face-up to prevent wrinkles, so can you!

144.   Two other pieces of simple advice to help you sleep comfortably without adding wrinkles to your face. Firstly, invest in a silky-smooth, satin pillow case. It’s  luxuriously comfortable, and your skin does not “stick” to satin as it might to cotton, especially if you perspire occasionally. Secondly, use a big, soft, non-synthetic pillow that does not apply added pressure to your facial skin if you tend to toss and turn.

 Avoid Cosmetic Creams, Lotions, Peels and Anti-Wrinkle Jabs

145.   There may be a reason why you keep rushing off for facials, and why the cosmetic industry is worth billions of dollars. It is because you want beautiful, healthy, radiant skin. But you do not really need to spend all that money on cosmetics and procedures. Good health is what makes for good skin. There are some amazing beauty products in the market purporting to make your skin look younger. But Dr. Jyoti Singh believes that “no anti-ageing cream, exfoliating wash, European facial, age-defying make-up etc is more powerful than the lifestyle and healthy eating steps every person can take to keep the skin looking smooth and healthy.” The back-to-basics movement in the West has been fuelled by dermatologists who have reached the conclusion that there is no scientific evidence to suggest that expensive cosmetics work.

146.   Be happy with the colour of your skin. All the creams and “skin treatments” in the world cannot bring about any appreciable change in it. This is the conclusion reached by PGI (Chandigarh) dermatologists after years of exhaustive research. The fact is, if one goes in for skin pigmentation or peeling, then chances are that

there would be rebound hyper-pigmentation, which is far more damaging and irreversible. Excessive use of make-up cosmetics clogs the skin pores and stops it from breathing.

147.   As for anti-wrinkle jabs, they may cause irreversible damage. The “filler” injections like botox and carbon dioxide may seem a fast and perfect way to remove the facial wrinkles, but the French surgeon Dr. Daniel Marchac has warned that thousands of persons (mostly women) could end up with irreversible damage to their subcutaneous tissue – the layer of fat underneath the skin – and their fibrous tissue.

 Avoid Hot Baths/Showers

148.   While bathing, do not expose your body to hot water for too long. Hot baths are demagnetising. It is always better to follow a warm bath or shower with a thorough rinsing of cold water to tighten the facial and body muscles. Pat your skin dry after bathing. This leaves a thin layer of water on the skin for it to absorb. Sitting in a sauna for a while enhances glow of the skin.

 Exfoliating the Skin

149.   The skin breathes and sweats through a multitude of pores. Exfoliate your skin with a soft brush before bath or shower to open up the pores for the skin to breathe. It can work wonders on your skin as it removes the dead skin cells and brightens the skin. It also improves skin texture and produces an even colour tone. Exfoliation is a powerful cleansing procedure too, leaving the skin renewed, refreshed and glowing.

Cleanse the Skin Regularly

150. During the course of the day, your pores get clogged by dead cells, dust and pollution in the environment. It, therefore, becomes necessary to cleanse your skin regularly, especially face, with fresh water. In any case, wash your face properly to remove the cosmetics, if any, before you go to bed.

Santokh Singh Parmar

Naturo-Food Therapist & Lifestyle Consultant

Mobile: +91(0) 9815922330

Websites: www.naturofoodtherapy.org & www.foodtherapy.org

December 2008

Note: The above information and advice and indicative remedies are not a substitute for the advice, your doctor or naturo-food therapist may give you based on his/her knowledge of yourself.